February 12, 2006: Two days ago we travelled by bus from El Calafate to El Chalten, which sits at the foot of the mountain of the same name. The mountain has been renamed “Mount Fitzroy” after the captain of Charles Darwin’s ship, The Beagle, but its original name, which means “the smoking mountain” is more appropriate today. There’s been cloud hanging off the peak since we left our accommodation this morning.







