Margaret’s Kimberley Trip: Days 7 and 8

Day seven was given over to the El Questro ‘experience’, with an early start for those of us who wanted to walk into Emma Gorge and swim in the plunge pool beneath the cascade. The track, which was formerly a relatively easy stroll, was devastated in March 2005 when Tropical Cyclone Ingrid dumped 445 mm of rain on the area in less than 24 hours. El Questro’s Emma Gorge Resort was all but demolished by the cyclonic winds and rain but has been completely rebuilt and its tented villas – with en-suite bathrooms – complement the five-star facilities of the rest of the resort.

The al fresco dining area at the Emma Gorge resort. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/80 second at f/6.3)

The cyclone tore out house-sized boulders from the surrounding hillsides and flung them into the creek, washing thousands of smaller rocks downstream. Consequently, the track up to the waterfall has become a scramble, rather than a stroll. It’s not particularly difficult; but you need suitable footwear to avoid twisting your ankles.
I decided to leave the SLR behind and take only the PowerShot G10 on this walk because I was keen to swim in the plunge pool at the base of the falls. As usual, I set the shooting mode to aperture priority and left the sensitivity on ISO 100. (I would later regret both decisions.)

One of the large boulders deposited on the Emma Gorge path by Tropical Cyclone Ingrid. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/40 second at f/6.3)

Negotiating the pathway up to the falls at the top of Emma Gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/25 second at f/6.3)

We had been walking for approximately 15 minutes when Dan called a halt; he had noticed an olive python in the rocks beside the path. Pythons are non-venomous and this one was keeping very still to avoid attention. As long as we moved quietly and smoothly, we were able to approach close enough to photograph it.

Although we estimated it was roughly 1.5 metres long, this handsome olive python was of a modest size and probably more frightened of us than we were of it. Its colouring blends well with the rocks and leaf litter. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 30.51mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/6.3)

The pathway wound uphill beside tranquil pools filled with crystal-clear water. Many of them contained huge boulders, which had to be clambered over as we passed by. before long we could hear the waterfall and catch glimpses of the top of the cascade. At this point I should have switched the camera’s sensitivity to auto to deal with the rapidly diminishing light levels. (But I was paying attention to the scenery without evaluating the changing light levels.)

One of the mid-stream pools with boulders surrounding it and a glimpse of the top of the Emma Gorge cascade visible beyond. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/6 second at f/6.3)

Looking down on a crystal-clear pool a few hundred metres from the end of the gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/25 second at f/7.1)

Approaching the Emma Gorge cascade. Very little sunlight reaches into this area and photographers must rely on reflected light from the bright sky and gorge walls above. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/6 second at f/2.8)
Because I had neglected to adjust the ISO setting on my camera, all the shots I took around the plunge pool were blurred. Shutter speeds were simply too slow for the camera’s image stabilisation system. However, those of us who braved the slightly chilly water agreed it was one of the best swimming spots on the entire trip.
Returning to the resort, we collected our gear for the day (including camera bags, bathers and packed lunches) and climbed into the truck for the half-hour trip into the El Questro station. Our first stop was at the Zebedee Springs, where a creek emerges from the hillside after having passed through heated rocks. Visitors can relax under the shade of Livistona palms in shallow pools of warm, running water at various levels on the hillside – but there’s no place to actually swim.

Livistona palms growing on the hillside just above Zebedee Springs. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/5)

Visitors relaxing in the warm waters of Zebedee Springs. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/8 second at f/5)
Entry to Zebedee Thermal Springs closes at midday each day so we had less than an hour in the water. However, that was quite long enough as photo opportunities were relatively limited. (There’s also no place to change out of wet bathers until you return to the car park.)
From Zebedee Springs we drove on to the main focal point of the El Questro Wilderness Park: the Station Township, which includes a general store, a small display of historical items and a bar. Beside the store are parklands, including a camping ground/caravan park that reaches down to the Pentecost River, which passes through the property. We were to have a leisurely lunch in the park before embarking on a cruise into Chamberlain Gorge in the afternoon.

The Station Township at El Questro. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 12.1mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/7.1)

Chamberlain Gorge proved to be better for photography than anything we had experienced during the day. The calm waters created attractive reflections of the cliffs and vegetation along the shores of the stream and the flat-bottomed boat moved slowly enough to produce minimal disturbance. I was even able to use the EOS 5D II for most of my shots.

Looking up Chamberlain Gorge from near the start of the cruise. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 32mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/11.)

Scrubby trees clinging to the top of the cliffs make a nice contrast against the bright orange rocks and vivid blue sky. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 200, 195mm focal length, 1/500 second at f/9.5.)

Deeper into the gorge, the rock faces began to glow with reflected light. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 200, 80mm focal length, 1/91 second at f/5.)
Once we reached the point in the gorge where the water became too shallow to enter, the crew produced pellets of fish food and handed them around so we could feed the many archer fish, barramundi and catfish that lived in the river. The archer fish – which catch insects by squirting jets of water at them – created a great deal of hilarity and many of the passengers were hit by the water jets. It was quite difficult to photograph these fish and avoid getting targeted.

An archer fish approaches, ready to fire. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 800, 200mm focal length, 1/30 second at f/4.8.)

On our return trip down the gorge we were entertained by local identity, Buddy Tyson, who has spent his life in the Kimberley, working as rodeo rider, roustabout and station manager. With the typical dry sense of humour of the Australian outback, Buddy regaled us with tall tales and true of his life in the bush.

Buddy Tyson. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 400, 300mm focal length, 1/45 second at f/5.6.)

As the shadows lengthened a golden glow filled the gorge, creating ideal conditions for picture-taking.

Late afternoon light in Chamberlain Gorge. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 400, 24mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/11.)

Reflections. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 400, 40mm focal length, 1/181 second at f/9.5.)

About half-way back to the landing we were privileged to see one of the gorge’s rare rock wallabies watching us as we passed. The animal’s grey-brown fur made it almost invisible against the rock face.

The rock wallaby can be seen in the lower right corner of the picture. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 400, 300mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/5.6.)

Day eight saw my partner and I out before sunrise to take some photographs of the Cockburn Ranges, which lie to the north-east of El Questro. This spectacular escarpment formed the backdrop to many of the scenes in Baz Luhrmann’s movie, Australia, and we felt the high orange cliffs had considerable photographic potential in the early morning light. We’d seen a possible vantage point along the road into the resort and, with our camera bags on our backs, headed out to it, looking for pictures.
Unfortunately the view from the road was restricted by long grass in the foreground. Taking a side track, I happened upon a partially overgrown trail that led towards a large boab tree, which I thought would make a good photograph. Roughly halfway to the tree, I stepped over s sign on the ground that read: Sunrise Track, Boab Gully.
Forgetting the boab, I followed it and found myself in a perfect spot for taking pictures. The rising sun brought out the warm colours in the escarpment and cast an orange glow over the landscape. Boab trees, dotted along the gully – and interspersed with shallow pools and slaty rock ledges – provided great foreground material. A couple of representative images are presented below.

Boab tree. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 400, 28mm focal length, 1/80 second at f/9.5.)

Sunrise over the Cockburn Ranges, seen from Boab Gully. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 400, 24mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/6.7.)

Boab Gully just after sunrise. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 400, 28mm focal length, 1/91 second at f/9.5.)

A little further up Boab Gully, (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 400, 30mm focal length, 1/91 second at f/9.)

Panoramic view of the Cockburn Ranges, created from four images stitched together with the PhotoMerge function in Photoshop. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 35mm focal length, 1/91 second at f/16.)

Close-up of turning leaves from the kapok bush (Cochlospermum fraseri), which loses its leaves in the dry season. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 58mm focal length, 1/362 second at f/4.)
Returning to the resort we joined the rest of the group for breakfast then boarded the truck for the trip to Kununurra. Today we would say farewell to the Gibb River Road, visit Parry’s Lagoon for a little bird watching, have lunch at the Five Rivers Lookout in Wyndham and finish the day at the Country Club Motel in Kununurra. Although the actual distance wasn’t great – and most of the roads we would be travelling on were sealed – we had a lot to accomplish before sunset.

Farewell to the Gibb River Road. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 7.8mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/8)

Parry’s Lagoon, which is part of the Ord River floodplain, was quite spectacular, with good opportunities for photographing various ducks, geese, cormorants, swans and egrets – provided you had both the time to sit in the hide and the right equipment. We were a bit deficient in both as we had a schedule to meet and it was difficult to shoot close-ups, even with my 300mm lens. Photographing the native waterlilies (Nymphaea violacea) was much easier.

Parry’s Lagoon, photographed from the hide provided for bird watchers. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 200, 130mm focal length, 1/500 second at f/16.)

A blue waterlily surrounded by aquatic vegetation. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 200, 300mm focal length, 1/500 second at f/6.7.)

An egret picks its way along the bank opposite the hide. . (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM lens; ISO 200, 300mm focal length, 1/160 second at f/16.)

The swampy part of Parry’s Lagoon. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 75mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/16.)
En route back to the Great Northern Highway we stopped briefly on Telegraph Hill, the site of a World War I communications facility, where we had an excellent view over Marglu Billabong, in the Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve. The remains of a building – in the form of concrete stumps – are still visible in the grass covering the hilltop.

The view over the Marglu Billabong from Telegraph Hill. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 105mm focal length, 1/45 second at f/16.)

Next stop was the port town of Wyndham. We would have lunch at the Five Rivers Lookout, a hilltop in the town overlooking the Cambridge Gulf where the Ord, Forest, King, Durack and Pentecost Rivers flow into the ocean. From the lookout you can also see the port of Wyndham, where cattle are loaded for export.

View from the Five Rivers Lookout, showing the confluence of the rivers with the port of Wyndham at the base of the hill. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/13.5.)
Leaving Wyndham, we proceeded on to Kununurra, arriving early enough for Dan to give us a tour of some of the sights of the town, including a rock gallery that sold polished stones, a rum distillery and his favourite fishing spot at Ivanhoe Crossing on the Ord River. Strong backlighting made photography difficult; you had to find a position where flare was minimised -which wasn’t easy. After taking a few shots it was time to adjourn to the motel.

Ivanhoe Crossing, a concrete causeway over the Ord River, near the Ivanhoe Station Homestead is a popular spot for barramundi fishing. Prominent signs warn visitors about the presence of salt water crocodiles in the area; swimming is out of the question! (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 80, 6.1mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/8)