Margaret’s Kimberley Trip: Days 3 and 4

Leaving Imintji Wilderness Camp early in the morning, the truck headed east-north-east through the heart of Kimberley cattle country to Galvans Gorge. From the car park a short walk took us through the bush to a picturesque, almost circular waterhole formed by a waterfall that cascades roughly 20 metres from the escarpment above.
Being only a kilometre or so from the car park, this little gorge can be popular at the peak of the tourist season. Fortunately, we had it almost to ourselves and were able to enjoy its tranquillity and take some good pictures. We also had opportunities for shooting close-ups of some of the flowering plants and animals in the area, with some of the best shots coming from plants in and around the camping area. Wide aperture settings were used to isolate the main subjects from their backgrounds.

Flowers of the Woollybutt (Eucalyptus miniata), a small tree with a spreading canopy that was abundant in the area. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 80, 30.5mm focal length, 1/251 second at f/4.5)

A bud of the Rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa), which was also abundant in some areas. Buds from this plant are used to make Rosella jam. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 21.5mm focal length, 1/101 second at f/4)

Fruits of the Strychnine Bush (Strychnon lucida), a small, graceful tree. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 30.5mm focal length, 1/60 second at f/4.5)

A trio of Fan Palms (Livistona eastonii), one of the characteristic plants of the Mitchell Plateau. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 80, 10.8mm focal length, 1/50 second at f/5.6)

A colourful St Andrews Cross spider, suspended over the water at Galvans Gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 30.5mm focal length, 1/79 second at f/4.5)

A view of Galvans Gorge, taken with the Canon EOS 5D Mark II. (EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/160 second at f/13.5.)

One wonderful feature of Galvans Gorge was that it presented us with our first view of rock art. Just under the escarpment is a picture of a Wandjina, one of the creation spirits of Aboriginal culture. Wandjinas are protective spirits who are so powerful they don’t need to speak; hence no mouth is depicted. They are still respected by Ngarinyin people of the north-western and central Kimberley.

Our guide, Dan, explaining the importance of the Wandjina at Galvans Gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/60 second at f/5.6)

Unlike many Wandjinas, the one at Galvans Gorge depicted only a head. Unfortunately, it was half in shade and half in sunlight and quite difficult to get to, which made photographing it almost impossible. Furthermore, I was unable to find any way to adjust the shots I took at various different exposure settings to obtain a satisfactory picture. The best result is shown below.

The Wandjina that guards Galvans Gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 30.5mm focal length, 1/251 second at f/5.6)

From Galvans Gorge we proceeded to Barnett River Gorge, which was much more crowded – and far less beautiful. However, it was deep enough for swimming and no crocodiles were evident (only freshwater crocodiles are found here) so most of us took the opportunity to cool off with a dip before lunch. Lunch was held by the roadside a kilometre or so from the gorge.

Looking upstream at Barnett River Gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 80, 13.8mm focal length, 1/281 second at f/7.1)

Swimming at Barnett River Gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 80, 6.1mm focal length, 1/202 second at f/7.1)

Lunch in the bush, well away from the crowds that arrived while we were leaving the gorge. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 80, 6.1mm focal length, 1/501 second at f/5.6)

Returning to the road, we headed north-east again for approximately 85 km before turning north along the Kalumburu Road, which leads to the Mitchell Plateau, one of the focal points of our trip. After fording the Drysdale River, we arrived at the Marunbabidi Wilderness Camp, where we would spend the night, before going up to the Mitchell Plateau on the following morning.

Crossing the Drysdale River – a photo opportunity provided by our guide. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/360 second at f/8.)

A more peaceful view of the Drysdale River, looking upstream from the crossing. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 65mm focal length, 1/181 second at f/13.5.)

The campfire at Marunbabidi Wilderness Camp. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 200, 6.1mm focal length, 1/6 second at f/4)

Accommodation at Marunbabidi Wilderness Camp. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/251 second at f/7.1)

Early morning at the rapids on the upper King Edward River at Marunbabidi. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 400, 24mm focal length, 1/90 second at f/11.)

Driving to the Ungolan Wilderness Lodge on the Mitchell Plateau involved travelling on rough and corrugated unsealed roads but Dan was still able to show us several superb Aboriginal art sites and allow us time for a swim at the King Edward River Crossing. As well as viewing some wonderful Wandjina paintings, it was here we had our first sight of the Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings that pre-date the tribal memories of living Aboriginals.
I found the PowerShot G10 ideal for photographing these pictures because its slightly elevated contrast and saturation levels tended to bring out the painted figures better. It was also more manoeuvrable in tight spaces than the EOS 5D II. Use of flash is discouraged as it can affect the ochre pigments; but flash also tends to wash out the colours in shots so it’s better avoided.

One of the King Edward River petroglyphs that were first discovered in 1838 by an exploration party led by Captain George Grey. You can see six Wandjina heads with a kangaroo figure above them. Wasps’ nests can be seen hanging from the rock face. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/100 second at f/4.5)

An example of Gwion (Bradshaw) rock art, which dates back more than 17,000 years. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 18.1mm focal length, 1/50 second at f/4)

A mixture of several Aboriginal art ‘styles’, showing Gwion paintings over-painted with more modern styles (including hand prints). (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 15.7mm focal length, 1/30 second at f/3.5)

A cascade on the King Edward River, near where we stopped for lunch. (Canon EOS 5D Mark II with EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 35mm focal length, 1/22second at f/16.)

We arrived at the Ungolan Wilderness Lodge about an hour before sunset, discovering we had been allocated the prime location, overlooking an excellent swimming hole. We wasted no time in trying it out, which meant using slow shutter speeds when I finally got round to documenting the site.

The focal point of the Ungolan Wilderness Lodge, with the campfire in the foreground and the kitchen and ‘dining room’ behind. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 200, 6.1mm focal length, 1/20 second at f/5)

Our tent at Ungolan. (Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 200, 6.1mm focal length, 1/15 second at f/4.5)