Eight Days in the Taupo Volcanic Zone – Days 6 and 7

After the strenuous climb of Ruapehu we decided to take the next two days more easily in preparation for the 19.4 km Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which was scheduled for Day 8. Accordingly, since the weather looked like remaining good for the next three says, we opted to explore the area to the south of Mt Ruapehu on Day 6 and go canoeing on the Whanganui River on day 7.

We checked out of the Whakapapa campsite shortly before 10 a.m. and, after stopping for a final weather check at the Visitors’ Centre, headed for State Highway 47, which we followed south-west to National Park Village, where we turned south to Ohakune. Known equally as the carrot capital of New Zealand and as the base town for the Turaroa Ski Area, Ohakune is a pretty little town that nestles alongside the Mangawhero River, one of the streams flowing down the southern side of the Mt Ruapehu catchment area.

Our goal was to walk to the Waitonga Falls, a 4 km track that leaves the Ohakune Mountain Road approximately 11 km from the town. The falls plunge roughly 39 metres over a vertical cliff face, which faces south – a fact not revealed in any of our guide books, but which had dire consequences for photographing the falls at the time of day when we arrived.

The track is well-formed and easy to follow. It begins with a relatively steep haul up through a beech and mountain cedar forest then plateaus out to cross an alpine bog with small tarns, where duckboards protect the fragile vegetation. On a clear day like the one we enjoyed, a fine view of the southern face of Mt Ruapehu can be enjoyed from this point.

Mt Ruapehu photographed from the duckboards crossing the alpine bog. (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 9.8mm focal length, 1/160 second at f/7.1.)

A panoramic view stitched together from five shots showing the tarn lake and duck-boarded path. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/30 second at f/13.5.)

From the end of the duckboards, the track descends through more forest until it reaches the stream bed. Here you gain the first view of the falls themselves. Because the cliff over which the water falls faces south, you have to shoot directly into the sun when taking a picture. No matter where you go, it’s almost inevitable your photograph will be flare-affected.

I tried three strategies to minimise potential problems. The first was to shoot RAW+JPEG files (which I always do), on the understanding that the raw files will have enough image data to support fairly extensive editing (to correct any loss of highlight or, particularly, shadow details). The second was to shade the lens with my hand – in addition to fitting the normal lens hood. This small amount of additional shading can help to minimise flare.

The third was to try some high dynamic range (HDR) photography, taking three shots: one with the metered exposure, another with +2EV and the third with -2EV. These would be combined in Photoshop with the hope of producing an image with the full dynamic range of the scene.

As it happened, strategies 1 and 2 produced the best results (shown below). The HDR trio ended up producing a very flat-looking image that provided a surprisingly small amount of leeway for post-processing adjustments.

Waitonga Falls, photographed with the Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/13.5.

On the way back to the car we discovered an interesting flowering plant, which I have not been able to identify. The low light levels would have required a tripod, had I decided to use the EOS 5D II to photograph this plant. Fortunately, I also had the G10, which was ideal for the job as its smaller sensor (with its inherently much greater depth-of-field) enabled me to shoot at a wide aperture and still have most of the subject in focus – although I did have to increase the ISO to 400 to minimise the risk of blurring due to camera shake.

An unusual flowering plant in the forest. (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 400, 8.1mm focal length, 1/25 second at f/3.2.)

We drove up to the Turoa ski fields for lunch and a view out to the south-west. It being too early in the season for snow, the ski fields were almost deserted but the view was interesting and, despite it being almost mid-afternoon, the trip was worthwhile. It was close to sunset when we reached the Discovery Village campsite, where we were to stay for the remaining three nights.

The view from the car park at the Turoa ski fields. (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 400, 6.1mm focal length, 1/403 second at f/7.1.)

Sunset from our campsite at Discovery Village. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 67mm focal length, 1/91 second at f/13.5.)

We were up early on Day 7 as we had to drive for approximately 90 minutes to reach Pipiriki on the Whanganui River for our canoeing adventure. The plan was to join a tour group travelling upstream by jet-boat to The Bridge to Nowhere, a concrete road bridge spanning the Mangapurua Stream in Whanganui National Park, which was built in 1936 but has no roads leading to it. It’s a popular tourist attraction but is accessible by boat or kayak. The jet-boat would drop us off approximately 13 km upstream, where we would pick up our canoe and paddle back to the Pipiriki landing.

The road down to from State Highway 4 to Pipiriki was an experience in itself as it would through a steeply-undulating landscape unlike anything we had ever seen in Australia. The last 25 minutes were unsealed and required careful driving and constant vigilance as many corners were ‘blind’. But, once we reached our destination, Pipiriki village turned out to be quite a charming rural retreat.

Morning mist rising over the fields in Pipiriki village. (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 7.8mm focal length, 1/3183 second at f/7.1.)

Although we were told it would be ‘an easy, relaxing paddle’, nobody mentioned that the river levels were low and some of the rapids were quite vicious. Nor were we told that the Canadian canoe was heavy and pretty knocked-about or that its base resembled corrugated Alsynite roofing. (We’re accustomed to light, manoeuverable kayaks.)

Fortunately, the water was reasonably warm and those parts of the river that weren’t downright scary were attractive and pleasant to paddle in and we survived the adventure with most of the top half of our bodies reasonably dry. I don’t have many photos from this trip as I left the EOS 5D II in the camper van for safety and only took the G10 (which spent most of the time inside the waterproof barrel holding our lunch and clothing).

The trip up the Whanganui River in the jet-boat, (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 6.1mm focal length, 1/403 second at f/7.1.)

Our canoe, ready to carry us downstream. (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 15.7mm focal length, 1/101 second at f/6.3.)

Some other paddlers negotiating one of the quieter areas. (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 30.5mm focal length, 1/60 second at f/6.3.)

A view of the Whanganui River from one of the many pebble-coated bends. (Photographed with Canon PowerShot G10, ISO 100, 13.8mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/7.1.)

On our return to Discovery Village we stopped to enjoy some of the scenery we had passed through in the morning – but had felt too time-pressed to photograph. The shot below gives some idea of the country we passed through. The southern side of Mt Ruapehu can be seen in the background.

This panorama was stitched together from four shots taken with the PowerShot G10. (ISO 100, 10.8mm focal length, 1/159 second at f/7.1.)