Eight Days in the Taupo Volcanic Zone – Day 5: Mount Ruapehu

After a chilly night we arose to a frosty morning and assembled a quick breakfast in order to get up to the Iwikau Village car park in the Whakapapa Ski Area where we would meet our guide, Mike Fox. We had been instructed to bring lunch, wet weather gear, hats, sunscreen and plenty of water. We also brought our walking sticks and cameras.
I decided upon one camera with one lens for the climb as I was reluctant to carry any more than I absolutely had to. So, the G10 and 70-300mm lens were packed away safely, leaving me with the EOS 5D Mark II plus EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens. This turned out to be a wise decision as the climb was strenuous – both up and down and at no time did I feel the need for a longer, telephoto lens.

Imagine our surprise when we saw thick frost alongside the road on our way up to the ski area. Staff at the combined store and coffee shop in the village said the frost had been even thicker on the previous morning but they expected it to ‘burn off’ quickly once the sun warmed the area.

Frost beside Bruce Road on the way up to the Iwikau Village car park. Mt Ngauruhoe can be seen in the distance. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 28mm focal length, 1/22 second at f/11.)

For the first part of the 2660 metre ascent we took chairlifts because this part of the mountain provides little in the way of scenery. Once off the upper chairlift we were on our own, with Mike’s guidance to show us the safest and most visually interesting way up. No paths are marked in this area so ‘free’ walkers (without guides) have to find their own way and can easily waste time and energy by taking the wrong direction.

Leaving the upper chairlift there is a good view out across the valley to the north-west. The rocky slopes of the mountain are relatively easy to negotiate here. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/30 second at f/13.5.)

Several hours of scrambling over rocks and rubble followed, with occasional stops for picture-taking when there were worthwhile views. This part of the climb, however, had little to offer in the way of photographs, beyond a panoramic view of the country below our feet and the adjacent mountains.

A panorama stitched together from five images taken about half way up to the crater ridge from the chairlift. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/45 second at f/13.5.)

We reached the crater ridge at around lunch time and stopped for our snack – and some picture-taking. From this point, a reasonably well-market path led up along the ridge marking the edge of the main crater and on to the crater lake, which was our goal. The crater itself is largely filled with ice and marks the source of a small glacier that has declined quite dramatically in recent times. Left over snow from last year could still be seen on the slopes and, although most of the glacier was covered by grey gravel, pits in the surface confirmed the presence of ice.

A path at last! The track to the crater lake can be seen winding up the ridge, with the left side sloping down to the glacier and the right side down the mountain side. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 28mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/13.5.)

Looking back along the ridge from the last haul up to the crater lake overlook. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 40mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/13.5.)

Looking down into the main crater glacier from the ridge. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 105mm focal length, 1/160 second at f/13.5.)

A closer view of one of the ice pits in the glacier’s surface. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 105mm focal length, 1/91 second at f/11.)

As you approach the final climb to overlook the crater lake you can see the Dome Equipment Shed, which doubles as a shelter for climbers, skiers and geologists who are caught by bad weather – or volcanic activity. On 25 September, 2007, an unexpected small eruption trapped two mountaineers in this hut, which was right in the blast zone. The eruption blew in the door and covered the hut with debris. One climber, William Pike, was seriously injured but lived to tell the tale. Our guide, Mike was one of the rescuers involved in bringing him down safely from the mountain.

The Dome Equipment Hut, located on the ridge surrounding the crater lake. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/125 second at f/13.5.)

The hut marks the end of the normal ascent, although it’s not the highest point on the mountain (which is probably the peak on the opposite side of the crater lake). From this point, you have panoramic views over the crater lake and the valleys to the east, the site of many previous mud and debris flows produced by eruptions in the lake. While we were there, a plume of debris arose from the depths of the crater lake, staining its sulphurous surface. (We weren’t concerned as there had been no sign of unexpected activity on the seismographs on the Whakapapa Visitors’ Centre on the previous evening. As far as we know, no further activity occurred.)

A panorama stitched together from six shots showing the upwelling of material from the depths of the crater lake. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/250 second at f/13.5.)

Our guide, Mike Fox, waits on the crater rim while we take the last pictures before descending. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 24mm focal length, 1/181 second at f/13.5.)

We spent approximately 40 minutes exploring the vicinity of the crater lake before it was time to join the other climbers on the long slog back to the chairlift. We were the last to leave the crater and this provided the chance to photograph other climbers as they proceeded along the ridge with rising clouds billowing over the main crater’s rim.

Looking back from the crater towards the beginning of the downward track with rising clouds pouring mistily over the ridge. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 40mm focal length, 1/91 second at f/13.5.)

Clouds roll in as we head back to the chairlift. (Photographed with Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens; ISO 200, 95mm focal length, 1/181 second at f/11.)

We reached the chairlift just before the staff closed it for the day, thanks to Mike’s foresight in phoning ahead. It was dusk by the time we arrived at the car park to collect our camper van and return to the camp site for a shower and evening meal – and a well-earned rest.