Camera settings for bird photos

Before embarking on a shoot, try to have your camera set up and ready to use, regardless of whether you’re working from a hide or in the field. This means choosing the file format, setting sensitivity limits and deciding on exposure controls.

Recent cameras, like the OM-1 Mark II used for this shot paired with the sophisticated M.Zuiko Digital ED 150-600mm f/5.0-6.3 IS lens come with powerful image stabilisation and provide enough magnification for close-up shots of tiny fledgling Fairy Wrens. A hand-held shot at ISO 200, 500mm focal length (equivalent to 1000mm in 35mm format), 1/500 second at f/6.3.

File format

Record raw files wherever you can because they give you more image data to work with. In contrast to JPEGs, raw files capture as much image data as possible. JPEGs are much smaller files – but the JPEG compression process discards important data you could use.

If you want both file formats, select RAW+JPEG and save space by selecting smaller JPEG file sizes.

Some typical menu pages for setting file formats from different camera manufacturers, clockwise from top left: Canon EOS R, Fujifilm Quick Menu, Sony raw file compression options, OM systems RAW+JPEG selection.

Many cameras provide several raw file settings, typically uncompressed, compressed and losslessly compressed. Compressing files discards some information to make the file smaller but retains critical data. Losslessly compressed raw files are slightly larger but preserve ALL the image data.

However, uncompressed files can be very large. Choose this setting only if you have plenty of storage space in your camera.

Shooting mode

Many bird photographers prefer using the Aperture Priority (A or Av) mode so they can set a wide aperture, ideally no smaller than f/5.6. Most lenses perform best at wide apertures and you need as much light as possible to support fast shutter speeds, particularly when using longer telephoto lenses.

When shooting birds in flight, boost ISO sensitivity and stop down to around f/8 for enough depth of field to record the entire bird sharply. Make sure your shutter speed is fast enough to prevent motion blurring or pan the camera to follow the subject’s motion. Consider capturing a burst of shots.

Shutter settings

If your camera has a silent shutter mode, we’d recommend using it as birds have excellent hearing and the click of the shutter can startle them. You’ll also need shutter speeds of at least 1/500 second to capture a bird that’s in motion.

Slower shutter speeds are fine for perched birds or birds on the ground and when panning or if you want to blur the bird’s wing-beats to suggest rapid movement. If your camera and/or lens are stabilised you may be able to reduce shutter speeds even further.

This portrait of a Blue-faced Honeyeater was taken near Modanville in northern NSW by Lachlan Cooper of Camera House Lismore using a Nikon D850 camera with a Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Sport lens at 600mm. ISO 1000, 1/100 second at f/6.3. © Lachlan Cooper.

ISO settings

Set your camera to Auto ISO and use the menu to limit the range of sensitivities the camera can use. The camera will select the lowest ISO possible under the prevailing conditions to optimise image quality.

We recommend an upper limit of ISO 3200 for most mid-to-high-end cameras, although many ‘full frame’ models produce relatively noise-free images at higher ISO settings. Some cameras let you set a minimum shutter speed in Auto ISO mode.

Two pages from a Fujifilm camera’s menu showing how you can set the limits for the Auto ISO control to increase the likelihood of obtaining sharp images.

Optimal settings vary, depending on whether you want to print your photos or view them online. Test your camera beforehand to find out how high you can go for each scenario.

AF and metering modes

Single (or one-shot) AF is best for shooting stills, while continuous AF is best when recording a burst of shots – or video clips. AF Point Selection should be set to centre or full-area and metering should be set to centre-weighted average. (If you use a Canon camera, Partial is another option.) Use Spot metering when subjects are backlit or in contrasty lighting

AF Point Expansion (Canon cameras) or Dynamic AF-Area Mode (Nikon cameras) can be used to increase the focus area when tracking moving targets. If your camera includes Subject-detection AF, use bird detection, if it’s provided; otherwise animal detection should provide some advantage. Eye detection should be engaged wherever possible.

In most cameras manual focus over-ride will automatically magnify part of the image, usually around the focus point.

When you need to fine-tune the focus using manual adjustments, use the default magnification preview (shown in the illustration on this page) to focus on the precise area you want. Lenses that support manual focus over-ride or provide a pull-back manual focus ‘clutch’ let you switch quickly between auto and manual focus.

Spot metering makes it easier to record subject detail in backlit situations. Some cameras let you expand the metered area while Canon cameras provide a ‘Partial’ metering mode that takes in more of the subject.

Spot metering was used for this great action shot of a Black-necked Stork, taken near Ballina by Lachlan Cooper of Camera House Lismore. Nikon D850 camera with Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Sport lens at 600mm; ISO 3200, 1/500 second at f/7.1.  © Lachlan Cooper.

When further adjustment is needed, use the exposure compensation (+/- icon) control. The + setting increases brightness, while the – settings reduces it. Most cameras adjust exposure in 1/3EV steps.

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This article by Margaret Brown is an excerpt from Bird Photography pocket guide – click here to order print or ebook edition.

Pocket guide Partner: Camera House