February 18, 2006: At sea at last, on the way to Antarctica. Friday, 16 February was spent in Ushuaia, preparing for our voyage south. Our tour leader, Milton Sams, urged us to be up early to see our ship, Professor Molchanov, arrive in port at around 6.30 am. Six keen photographers were on the viewing platform shortly after six, where we were able to photograph a spectacular sunrise and see two suitably-sized ships approaching. Later we discovered the Professor Molchanov had arrived ahead of schedule and was already in dock!
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February 18, 2006: At sea at last, on the way to Antarctica. Friday, 16 February was spent in Ushuaia, preparing for our voyage south. Our tour leader, Milton Sams, urged us to be up early to see our ship, Professor Molchanov, arrive in port at around 6.30 am. Six keen photographers were on the viewing platform shortly after six, where we were able to photograph a spectacular sunrise and see two suitably-sized ships approaching. Later we discovered the Professor Molchanov had arrived ahead of schedule and was already in dock!  Sunrise over the Beagle Channel, photographed from the Hotel Los Lengas with the Nikon D200. Note the other photographers in the foreground, left! We boarded the ship in mid-afternoon and it left the dock just after 4.15 pm, ahead of two other vessels. After being introduced to the ship’s staff and undergoing the compulsory lifeboat drill, most passengers spent a large part of the remaining daylight hours on deck, spotting wildlife and photographing the scenery as we sailed down the Beagle Channel, en route for the open sea. Looking back on the coast we were provided with excellent views of Ushuaia and its surrounds and both the Argentinean and Chilean coasts (which face each other across the narrow waterway).  The Professor Molchanov at the Ushuaia docks. This photo, taken with the D200, shows the bus the delivered us and our baggage directly to the ship. Dents on the ship’s bow are a result of ice impacts.
Fortunately, the sea was smooth, although in parts of the coast, rain was falling and the sky was almost totally covered in cloud. Champagne with the ship’s captain, Evgeny Baturkin, was followed by a Welcome Dinner, after which we returned to our cabins for bed. The accommodation is comfortable but Spartan when compared with many cruise ships but, as you spend so little time in the cabin, minor inconveniences (like climbing into the upper bunk) are easily ignored. Meals are ample and generally excellent.  Discussing birds with ornithologist, Nigel Milius, on theship’s bridge, the best place for spotting birds and marine mammals. Taken with the Ixus 750. So far, most of the time has been spent on deck or in the bridge, from which the ship is operated. The ship has an “open bridge” policy and everyone is free to visit at any time of night or day – except when approaching land while the pilot is aboard. In the open sea, the bridge is a great place to look for wildlife and our, and naturalist, Kara Weller, are usually up there to watch out for interesting creatures and advise on identifying them. We’ve already had several lectures on the Antarctic environment and its wildlife from these specialists.  One of the successful shots of a black-browed albatross, the main species of albatross we’ve seen so far. Taken with the D200 and 18-200mm VR lens at the full 200mm setting; Sides cropped to create a vertical picture. The wildlife score sheet is growing daily and now includes two sei whales, seals, penguins and lost of birds. Depending on the weather and our timing, we may be able to make our first landing on shore today. From tomorrow, the pace will quicken as we start the real Antarctic adventure. Margaret Brown is technical editor for Photo Review Australia Magazine.
Margaret’s Antarctica Post 1: The Preparation
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